Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
